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Now named: "CarryOn? Building"
Aw, I thought /DeadLines was good. --Rachael

Dead / Lines



You are a team, building a silicon chip.  You've got plenty of lines to connect, plenty of functional blocks to do it with - and plenty of looming deadlines.  And lots and lots of blame to pass around.

The Setup



Each player takes a board, puts four random test cards face-down in the appropriate slots (you can look at them at any time, just keep 'em hidden from the others) and a full set of nine cards in their colour.

Also take two the two breaker/rewire tokens in your colour.

Throw two of your nine cards back into the public area.

The chip doesn't work!  Mark down that you've got ten points of blame, and you're good to go.

Assemble the board, it will have 9 empty tile spaces (in a 3x3 arrangement) and 24 test points (labelled a-x) around the edge.  The order of these doesn't matter at all, but alphabetical is conventional.

The play



On each turn:
  1. Make one play on the board.
    1. Either: Play a tile from your hand, or the public area, onto the board.
      1. If there is already a tile there, put it in the public area.
    2. Or: Swap two tiles already on the board.
    3. Or: Play one or both breaker/rewire tokens onto the board.
    4. Or: Move one breaker/rewire token already on the board to a new position.
      1. It doesn't have to be yours.
  2. When you've done that, take the 'last touched' markers for each colour of thing you altered.  Both for the card/breaker you played, and the one you removed (if any).
  3. Then you may start a scoring round, if you like.
    1. If you have the start player marker, you've got no choice.  You have to.
    2. First part of scoring - What's the new requirement?  Flip up any one of your test cards.
      1. If that's the third card in this group, whoever has the fourth one discards it.
      2. If they are all already flipped then just indicate which colour you are scoring this round.
    3. Now check if each and every test point in that group is connected by lines or rewire jumps.
    4. If they are, check that no other revealed test card is connected to them.
    5. And if that's all ok, you remove a point of blame for every face up test card (not just the ones in that group).
      1. Remove an extra point if you had no test cards to flip.
    6. Now, go round the table, with each player checking a group that they have a 'last touched' card for.
      1. If you've got no 'last touched' cards, skip this stage.
      2. If you've got more than one, choose which you'd like to check.
    7. Check this group in the same way.  If the group is broken (not everything connected, or connected to some things it shouldn't be) then you're going to take some more blame.
      1. Make moves to fix it, taking two points of blame for each move.
      2. If you can't see a way to do it without rewiring the whole board, just take five points of blame and move on.
        1. It is strongly suggested that if a player is taking too long to find a solution, they should just take the blame.  Maybe use a timer if it becomes a problem?
      3. Then pass on to the next player, as before.
  4. Finally, if you have the start-player marker, pass it back to the previous player.
  5. And let the next player take their turn.
  6. Game ends at the end of the turn where the final test card is flipped up / discarded.
  7. Most blameless player wins.

Not that this game is possibly quite swingy - the last turn could net you +17, and the average positive score across a whole game is +18.5
Even if it's only a -2 by screwing over the leader, it's an important -2...  Making the opposition gain blame is the main aim of the game.

Oh - and there's a little bit more encouragement to score early, to make up for the lower scores these will give you.

The Cards



Gotta get a picture in here.  Basically, you've got 8 entry points to any tile, some tiles discard some of them, and about half connect more than 2 points together.  About half keep pairs together, the other half switches them.

The breaker replaces the star, and cuts a line at  tile edge, but also reroutes both incoming wires to the appropriate sides of the other breaker.  It doesn't add a cross-connection any more, but on a smaller board I thought cutting links was more important.



BoardGame

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Last edited June 18, 2009 6:00 pm (viewing revision 5, which is the newest) (diff)
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